ComposiMo Fabrication 2" Front Fork Lowering Kit and 'RaceBarZ' Installation for the Honda Grom!

<<<CLICK HERE SKIP TO RaceBarZ INSTALLATION>>>

Thanks for purchasing the 2" Front Lowering Kit for the Honda Grom! This is a basic installation guide, and i tried to cover everything, but use your best judgement along the process. It is recommended that this kit is installed by a professional mechanic!

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Ok, heres our Grom getting ready to add the kit. I'm doing this on the ground, to show that the entire thing can be done with the bike on the ground, and without having to lift or raise the bike... as long as you do one side and then the other, and not both at the same time, it works out just fine. If you have a friend who can help steady the bike while you are working on it, then you won't need to use a front wheel chock like i am using. It IS advised that you get some thicker fork oil also and swap out fluid to help with the added spring rate, but this WILL require that you completely remove the forks from the bike, and drain the fluid.

 

To start with, we will remove the stock handlebars...

They have little plastic buttons over the bolts, that need to be taken off. I use a very small flat-head screwdriver to get underneath them, and pry them off...

Once off, remove the bolts...

Once you have the handlebars off, i normally get a towel to protect the dash, and then drape the bars over the front of the bike. Remember, you will be changing the bars to do this, as the stock bars won't fit once the lowering kit is installed. Alternatively, you could remove all of the controls first. I did not, because the bars help keep the controls out of the way a bit for me.

 

Ok, now, lets get the kit installed!!!

First thing is to pry off the large plastic cap over the top of the forks, similarly to how the handlebar bolt caps are done.

Then, take an allen key, and loosen the top triple tree clamp bolt.

Then, you want to crack loose the center bolt so that it is loose, but not remove it all the way yet.

Then, using a 36mm Socket (or open wrench), you'll want to completely unscrew the top cap... The bike will drop down a little bit when it comes loose, since only one fork will now be holding it up. Not to worry, hopefully your friend is helping hold the bike ;)

Then, go ahead and unscrew the center bolt all the way, and remove the top cap from the damper rod... you will be left with the top cap, a rubber bump stop, and a large washer. We will not be re-using the washer, but we will re-install the bump stop

 

OK! Now its time to install the Auxiliary Spring Pack, and the Lowering Piece!

The first thing we will do, is install the spring onto the lower spring seat, and then put the spring in the fork.

The important thing here is to identify the upper and lower spring seats, and to not get them backwards!

Here is the lower spring seat...

The smaller diameter side is what will go into one end of the spring.. it is a little of a tight fit, but it ensures that the spring stays on the lower seat...

 

Now, you'll take the spring and the lower seat, and slide them over the damper rod, into the fork tube... make sure that the lower spring seat fits into the top of the fork shaft... if it is off-center, it will not sit correctly on the fork tube!

 

Ok, now it is time for the upper spring seat!

This has a top and a bottom to it as well... the "short" side on the left of the picture is the side that goes down on top of the spring... the "long" end goes up.

Like so:

 

Next, install the Lowering Piece into the top of the fork... be SURE to have the o-ring installed on the bottom! Thread it all the way on, and hand-tighten it.

 

Next up, take the original bump stop and the supplied washer... you will want to install these on the damper rod... first the washer, and then the bump stop.

 

Then, install the top cap back on... you will have to press down a bit to compress the spring... it can help to use the socket to grip the top cap.

 

Next, tighten the whole assembly...

 

And then tighten the center Damper Rod bolt...

Reinstall the top plastic cap...

 

And last but DEFINITELY not least, make sure you re-tighten the upper triple clamp bolt!

 

And thats it!!! Do the other side the same way you did this one, and you'll be 2 inches lower, and have a much stiffer front end! It IS advised that you get some thicker fork oil also and swap out fluid to help with the added spring rate, but this WILL require that you completely remove the forks from the bike, and drain the fluid.

 

 

While we are there and have the bars off, that would be an excellent time to install the RaceBarZ handlebar setup! Alternatively, you could also install some simple bar risers (will need at least 1.5" to allow the bars to clear the top of the fork), and then you could run a much lower mountain-bike/dirt bike handlebar setup as well.

Here is the installation of the RaceBarZ

Putting the bars together is simple enough... the biggest thing to look for though is making sure you have the bar clamps on correctly... you can see in the above picture how the clamps are a bit offset form the centerline of the bolts... the one thats offset to the left goes on the left, and to the right goes on the right :) Also, the end of the bar that has the 'flat' plastic cap on it goes on the clamp-side of the bar, and the end with the round cap goes out on the grip-side.

First thing you'll want to do is drill the bars for your controls. On the throttle-side, you'll want to drill a 3/16" hole, about 5.75" from the end of the aluminum bar (not the plastic cap)... It does NOT matter where you drill the hole around the outside circumference of the bar.... what is important is the distance from the end. The bar can be loosened and rotated later to make things line up.

The Clutch-side will need the hole drilled at 6.375" from the end of the aluminum bar.

 

OK... now thats done, you'll reinstall the controls... here they are re-installed, and notice they are upside-down... not to worry, the bars can be loosened and rotated to get them right-side-up again :)

Right side up:

 

Ok, so obviously we have some extra throttle cable now that has to go somewhere.... we'll need to pull the headlight off, and re-route some cables and wires... NOTICE i have not re-installed the right side brake lever yet.. you'll have to maneuver it around the throttle cables so that nothing binds under the headlight, so leave it off for now...

So... Headlight off...

Remove the 4 bolts that hold it on... 2 on each side of the headlight housing...

Then, you'll want to take the light off, and unplug the two plugs that go to your front lights...

 

This is the mess under your headlights that you have to deal with... see how the two throttle cables come down and are behind everything? That needs to change...

So you'll need to loosen the wires from the "hooks" that hold everything, and also disconnect the two plugs on the left so that you can re-arrange the wires and cables... You will also need to remove the front brake line from the hook holding the rubber grommet just under the right side of the dash...

When done, you want everything to look like this:

 

Then you will want to lightly secure the two throttle cables to the front brake line with a zip-tie, like this:

 

Once you do that, you should be able to then reinstall your headlight the same way it came off... be sure that no cables are in the way or binding anywhere. Double check the operation of the throttle, it should still be nice and smooth with no binding, even while turning full right and full left. Go ahead and reinstall the clutch lever also, and allow the cable to loop over the dash and back down... this should allow it to operate smoothly and freely. It is very important that EVERYTHING is smooth at this point. If it is not, you need to go back and make sure all cables are running smooth and not binding up somehow! This is YOUR responsibility to make sure it is RIGHT!

Also, be sure to check your front brakes, and re-bleed if necessary! Sometimes while moving the brake master around, air could get introduced to the line if you're not careful, and could give you a spongy brake feel. Be sure to re-bleed if necessary!

Ok, so with that done, and the controls and levers re-installed, and angled however you like them, your result should be this:

A sweet lowered front end, with some nice low bars to control it with! :)

 

Enjoy!